How to Apply Self-Tanner, According to Pro Tan Artists

If you ask us, self-tanning is one of the best inventions in the beauty world. Being able to achieve a gorgeous, glowing tan without harmful UV rays – what could possibly be better? Gone are the days of sitting in the sun covered in baby oil or frying skin under the bright (and extremely dangerous) lights of tanning beds. Instead, airy foams, creamy lotions, and lightweight drops have replaced the past, creating a safe, sun-kissed glow right at home.

However, the only downside of self-tanner is the application process. While, yes, you can do it in the comfort of your own home at any time of day, how exactly do you achieve a faux tan that’s both long-lasting and streak-free? Lucky for you, we’ve asked ourselves the same question before. To get the answer (as well as a faux year-round glow), we tapped Sophie Evans, a celebrity tanner and St. Tropez skin finishing expert, to learn more. From how to properly apply self-tan to choosing the right shade for your skin tone, keep reading to learn all the best tips and tricks for getting a sun-free self-tan at home.

Experts Featured in This Article

Sophie Evans is a celebrity tan artist and St. Tropez skin finishing expert.

Alexandra DiMarchi is a celebrity spray-tan artist and global tanning expert for Tan-Luxe.

How to Prepare Skin Before Self-Tanning

Plain and simple, a good self-tan starts well before any products are applied to the skin. “The better condition your skin is in, the better your self-tan,” Evans tells PS. So, what does this look like? Well, it’s going to take some planning. Exfoliate your skin three days before you want to self-tan. This way, your skin will be fresh and clean and free from old self-tan. A good body scrub will do the trick, like the Osea Salts of the Earth Body Scrub ($48).

“My top tip is to exfoliate the day before (or at least eight hours before) self-tanning to give your skin time to settle and to be at its most neutral pH level,” says Evans. That’s because self-tans develop best when the skin is at its most natural state. (For some quick science, DHA, or the ingredient in tanning solutions that creates the bronze color, is what interacts with your skin’s pH. Due to this, things like when you shower and even your period can affect how well your skin accepts the tan.) In addition to that, be sure not to use heavy moisturizers, oils, perfumes, or deodorant on the day you tan since these can negatively interact with the tanning solution.

It’s also worth noting that any form of hair removal (including waxing, shaving, and plucking) should be done at least 24 hours before self-tanning. “This allows the pores to settle and prevents self-tan sitting in hair pores, creating a spotty look,” says Evans.

How to Choose the Right Shade of Self-Tanner

Unfortunately, we’ve all seen it: a tan that looks, well, fake. Orange hues or shades that are too dark for one’s skin tone can really throw off a tan, meaning it’s essential to find the right color for your skin. To do so, follow these steps.

Step 1: The first step is to assess your natural skin color and determine the level of tan you want to achieve (aka how tan do you want to be?). If you have fair skin, it’s generally best to start with a light to medium shade since this will give you a subtle tan without appearing orange. Medium to olive skin tones can handle medium to dark shades, which provide a deeper tan. For those with deeper skin tones, dark or ultra-dark shades are great for adding richness without altering the skin’s natural undertones. (Don’t know your skin’s undertone? Take this quiz to find out.)

Step 2: Speaking of undertones, consider the undertones of the self-tanner. Some formulas have cool undertones, which are good for people with pink or blue undertones in their skin, while others have warm or golden undertones that best suit people with yellow or olive skin tones. (If you’re unsure, we suggest looking for a self-tanner with a neutral undertone.) Pro tip: When in doubt, it’s safer to choose a shade slightly lighter than you think you need; you can always build up the color with more self-tan.

How to Avoid Streaks When Self-Tanning

Just like we’ve seen tans that don’t suit one’s skin tone, we’ve also seen tans that are streaky and unnatural looking. “Streaks are caused by the lack of product and a patchy self-tan can be caused by over-rubbing,” Evans says. To avoid this (as we noted earlier), make sure your skin is well-prepped — exfoliated, and free of any lotions or oils. When applying the actual self-tanner, it’s best to work in small sections. Start with your legs and go up, applying the product in circular motions. “Always use enough product so that you can glide the tan over limbs with ease,” Evans says. Also, be sure to use a tanning mitt, like the St. Tropez Double Sided Luxe Tan Applicator Mitt ($9), or a self-tan brush, like the Isle of Paradise Blending Brush ($24), which helps distribute the self-tan more evenly and keeps it from getting stuck in certain areas, which can lead to streaks.

Pay particular attention to tricky areas like your elbows, knees, and ankles, where self-tanner tends to cling and develop darker.

What happens if you follow these steps and still have streaks? We’ve got you covered. If you notice any streaks or uneven patches after the product has developed, gently exfoliate the area and reapply a small amount of tanner to even it out. This should do the trick.

Tips For Self-Tanning Hands and Feet

No matter how experienced you are with at-home tanning, hands and feet always prove to be a little tricky. The most telling sign of a fake tan is a poorly blended wrist or ankle. Problems in these areas happen because “the hands and feet are very sensitive to self-tan and will develop a lot darker than the rest of the body,” says Evans. To keep these parts looking natural, apply a light layer of moisturizer before tanning. A great product for this is the St. Tropez Tan Enhancing Body Moisturizer ($18), as it’s a non-greasy, non-oil-based formula that won’t disrupt the color.

“Focus on your knuckles, around your cuticles, and your wrist,” says celebrity spray-tan artist Alexandra DiMarchi. “This will create a barrier to ensure product does not overdevelop on dryer areas.”

When it’s time to actually tan these tricky areas, it’s best to save them for the very end — after you’ve finished the rest of your body application. Using whatever product is left on your mitt is enough to coat your hands and feet in sweeping motions (don’t apply a lot of pressure). After application, you’re not done just yet — grab a makeup wipe to remove excess product. “I like to use a cleansing wipe to lightly wipe around my wrists, palms, and nails just to be sure that there isn’t any extra product buildup,” DiMarchi says. “Then, I use the buffing brush or mitt to blend any excess product on the skin.”

How to Maintain a Self-Tan and Keep It Looking Fresh

Now that you have a gorgeous tan, it’s important to keep it that way. To do so, Evans notes that you need to keep your skin well-moisturized. That’s because hydrated skin (read: not dry and flaky) helps prevent your tan from fading unevenly or developing patchy spots. Plus, try to avoid using oils or products with harsh ingredients like AHAs or retinoids, which can make your tan fade faster.

“I would also recommend using a light gradual tan body moisturizer to boost your color in between self-tan applications,” notes Evans. We like the Tan-Luxe The Gradual Illuminating Gradual Tan Lotion ($34). Apply it daily the same way you apply moisturizer. Just make sure to wash your hands afterward so the tan doesn’t stick to them.

Lauren Harano is a contributor for PS and was formerly an editor for PS Living, Beauty, and Shop. She has a passion for skin care, murder mysteries, and online shopping. Aside from PS, her work can be found in the pages of Cosmopolitan and Seventeen as well as online at InStyle, Esquire, NBC, and various food and travel sites.