Saturday, December 21, 2024

9 Hanukkah Recipes That Aren’t Just Latkes

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Outside of the Jewish community, Hanukkah is by far the most familiar Jewish holiday: Menorahs are sold in shops alongside tree ornaments, and folks of all stripes, semitic or otherwise, love to sing about dreidels made of clay. Even if your only knowledge of Jewish stuff comes from a few random “Rugrats” episodes from 1996, chances are Hanukkah cracks the list. As one of the least religious holidays, it’s embraced by reform, secular, and cultural Jews — like those in my own family — who connect to our Jewishness more through festivities (and food!) than prayer.

Like many Jewish holidays, Hanukkah is defined by its iconic snacks. In Jewish-American households, Ashkenazi-fied crowd-pleasers like potato latkes, gelt (chocolate coins), and sufganiyot (jelly donuts) have become synonymous with the eight-night celebration. But, given the astounding diversity of Jews around the world, there are dozens of other Hanukkah traditions to tap when you can’t bear the idea of frying another potato. An unlikely development, I know, but anything is possible.

To be clear, potato latkes are not only delicious, they’re easy and fun to cook with a group. But you can only make so many each year. Hanukkah and its weeklong holiday celebrations make it the perfect opportunity to put your culinary skills to the test and learn a thing or two about some of the global Jewish traditions that never made it into “Rugrats.”

The holiday itself is a celebration of oil, so expect a lot of fried foods. (Hanukkah may commemorate the miracle of light, but that doesn’t mean it’s a time to eat light.) Below, find nine Hanukkah foods to try this year (one for each night, plus a bonus round), with links to recipes. Spoiler: There are lots of sweet treats and donut variations to try, but also a handful of savory goodies — even some, like a Roman-Jewish ricotta pancake, that are said to be a blueprint for the potato latke, which would come about hundreds of years later.

9 Hanukkah Recipes That Aren’t Just Latkes

1. Moroccan Sfenj Donuts

The name for these Moroccan donuts comes from the Arabic word for “sponge,” a fitting title for such a deliciously springy morsel. Traditionally these donuts are fried in oil for a few minutes, then either topped with a sprinkle of sugar or soaked in honey.

According to the Kosher Cowboy, sfenj donuts are eaten year-round across northwest Africa, typically with mint tea. The Nosher reports that the recipe originated in Moorish Spain in the Middle Ages, and today Moroccan Jews and other Sephardim eat them for Hanukkah.

2. Sephardi Buñuelos Donuts

While there’s no consensus on the spelling (some people call them burmuelos or bimuelos), these sweet fritters originated in the Mediterranean and are sometimes coated in a rosewater or orange blossom syrup. This recipe from Tori Avey is super simple and makes a pretty big batch.

Sfenj, Moroccan donuts, are a popular Hanukkah recipe.
Moroccan donuts, known as sfenj.

3. Spanish-Moroccan Rosquitas Donuts

Yet another bit of sweet, fried dough, Spanish-Moroccan rosquitas are similar to buñuelos and sfenj, but are typically coated in a citrusy syrup perfumed with lemon rind.

4. Moroccan Shebakia Donuts

The Kosher Cowboy writes about how shebakia, a rose-shaped pastry, “unites Moroccan households during both Jewish celebrations, like Hanukkah, and Muslim festivities, especially Ramadan.” Like the other popular Hanukkah fried dough, this one is also dipped in citrusy syrup, but then sprinkled with sesame seeds.

5. Pull-Apart Sufganiyot Cake

This inventive twist on the classic fried sufganiyot doesn’t require that requisite oil — it’s baked. The Nosher says it well: “If anyone gives you grief about baking instead of frying, just remind them that the real miracle of Hanukkah was about making things last longer than expected — and these beauties will definitely stick around at least a day longer than their fried cousins.”

Buñuelos donuts are a popular Sephardic Hanukkah recipe.Buñuelos donuts are a popular Sephardic Hanukkah recipe.
Buñuelos donuts.

6. Bukharian Fried “Twig” Cookies, or Hushquiliq

More sweet fritters for you and your Hanukkah table! These delicacies are enjoyed widely throughout Bukharian, or Mizrahi, Jewish cultures, which hail primarily from Central Asia. This hushquiliq recipe, which calls for two tablespoons of vodka, refers to them as “Bukharian fried ‘twig’ cookies,” and get a dusting of powdered sugar fresh out of the fryer.

7. Sephardi Leek Patties

Called keftes de prasa in Ladino, an ancient Judaeo-Spanish language spoken by some Sephardic Jews, these fried patties resemble a classic potato latke, but are constructed slightly differently and with the all-important leek. The Nosher writes that, during the Middle Ages, “leeks were so identified with the Sephardim that they became one of the foods that betrayed Jews during the Inquisition. As we know from Inquisition testimony, being caught cooking with leeks led to torture, imprisonment, and worse.”

Today, Sephardic Jews have reclaimed the leek and like to cook with them for holiday celebrations. There’s also a spinach version (Keftes de Espinaca) that is prepared similarly.

Jewish-Roman fried artichoke with lemon wedges are a good Hanukkah recipe.Jewish-Roman fried artichoke with lemon wedges are a good Hanukkah recipe.
Carciofe alla Giudia, fried artichoke.

8. 13th Century Italian Ricotta Latkes

Writing about why dairy is an often overlooked component of Hanukkah meals, Tori Avey cites the history of Judith, who, in the Middle Ages, was more central to the Hanukkah narrative. Apparently, Judith “plied the Assyrian army’s general with wine and salty cheese. When the general passed out drunk, Judith beheaded him with his own sword. The Israelites launched a surprise attack on the leaderless Assyrian army and emerged victorious.” So in her honor, these ricotta latkes — similar to a cheese blintz — make for a great Hanukkah treat. Plus, these pancakes actually resemble what many believe is the original latke, an Italian-Jewish pancake first made with ricotta in the 13th century. The Eastern European cousin — the potato latke — wouldn’t gain popularity until the 1800s.

9. Roman Fried Artichoke, or Carciofe alla Giudia

Jewish-style fried artichokes are a Jewish-Roman delicacy perfect for Hanukkah meals. While artichokes aren’t exactly in season at Hanukkah time, this 2,000-year-old snack is definitely worth adding to your holiday repertoire.

Emma Glassman-Hughes (she/her) is the associate editor at PS Balance. In her seven years as a reporter, her beats have spanned the lifestyle spectrum; she’s covered arts and culture for The Boston Globe, sex and relationships for Cosmopolitan, and food, climate, and farming for Ambrook Research.



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