Hair Color Theory, Explained by Hairstylists

Think back to your grade school art classes when you first discovered the color wheel. It was all about learning the primary colors, mixing and matching them to create different tones, and making a piece of work that would make Matisse (or your mom) proud. But even if you didn’t go on to become the next generational talent in the art world, who knew that this elementary color science would be helpful in figuring out your next hair shade? Enter hair color theory, the buzziest method for finding your ideal tone.

“Hair color theory is color theory,” celebrity hairstylist Justin Toves-Vincilione tells PS. “It’s art and anyone can participate.”

But what is the method exactly and how can you (or your stylist) use it when you’re dyeing your hair? Unlike TikTok’s “hair theory” trend, this solely focuses on the colors used, not styles. If the technique has piqued your interest, keep reading to learn how the experts use hair color theory to find the best shade for your new look. Beauty school is in session.

Experts Featured in This Article

Justin Toves-Vincilione is a celebrity hairstylist and Authentic Beauty Concept advocate.

Olivia Casanova is a hair colorist and co-owner of IGK salon.

What is Hair Color Theory?

According to Olivia Casanova, hair colorist and co-owner of IGK salon, hair color theory is a guideline for colorists to find a client’s most flattering shade, whether that’s strawberry blond, caramel-mocha brunette, or any tone you can imagine. Casanova explains that a colorist will first identify your natural hair color, skin tone, and eye color. Then, based on those results, they’ll use the color wheel to achieve your desired color result.

As Toves-Vincilione notes, “In art, the color wheel will never lie.” But it’s still totally customizable, as there are many combinations that can work for you when it comes to hair color. “It just depends on what vibe you’re going for,” he adds.

How Does Hair Color Theory Work?

Once a stylist has identified a client’s natural colors, they will use these undertones to create a shade that is the most complementary and flattering. To accomplish this, the stylist will turn to the color wheel, the most crucial element of hair color theory.

The color wheel is broken up into two main categories: primary colors and secondary colors. Your primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. She explains that whichever colors are opposite on the wheel are the most complementary and will help neutralize, particularly if you’re trying to soften unwanted complexion tones like excess redness.

“If a client has olive undertones, you’re going to want to give them a color with a lot of warm, golden undertones to neutralize the green tone in their skin,” Casanova says. “If a client has red undertones, you’re going to want to give them a more ashy hue to neutralize their pink skin.” She notes that hair texture and density aren’t usually considered when applying this method since all hair colors can be applied to any hair type.

Toves-Vincilione adds that hair color theory can help you and your stylist determine what base works best with your highlights, what amount of gray coverage you want to go for, or what shade will help your natural eye color pop.

Can You Do Hair Color Theory At Home?

Technically yes, you can apply hair color theory at home if you decide to dye your own hair. Casanova explains that you just need to identify your skin’s natural undertone and refer to the color chart to utilize the method. “Whichever colors are opposite one another on the chart are most complementary and neutralizing,” she says. “If you have yellow undertones in your skin, a blond or brown with violet undertones would be most complementary to you.”

But to get the most accurate shade matching, you should go and book that hair appointment with your colorist. “I would recommend leaving hair color to the professionals,” says Toves-Vincilione. “There is a vast world of color possibilities and application expertise that can only be mastered by someone in the practice.”

Audrey Noble is a beauty writer who covers breaking news, writes celebrity profiles, and does deep-dive features about the ways race, gender, sexuality, and other forms of identity impact society via the beauty industry. Previously, she was the beauty reporter at Allure and has held editorial positions at Vanity Fair and Refinery29. Audrey’s work can also be seen in PS, Vogue, Harper’s BAZAAR, Bustle, InStyle, WWD, and more.